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Friday, 11 May 2012

Pisco Bar at Ceviche, Soho


The most famous Peruvian I know is the divine Mario Testino who used to be my chum's lodger back in the days before he had an Anna Wintour-approved designer pot to piss in. To be honest, I'd much rather be on nodding terms with SuperMario's compatriots Paddington Bear and 1950’s cheesy listening queen Yma Sumac, but can they make me look a million dollars on my passport photo? I don't think so. Add to that subjective list of fabulous Incas, pisco, the South American nation's famous  pale grape brandy. Like Peruvian cooking, pisco is having a moment as London goes loco for all things Lima. Soho cantina, Ceviche (the foodie clue is in the name) boasts the capital’s first dedicated pisco bar. Purists prefer pisco neat or infused with physalis, eucalyptus leaf, chilli, apricot and lemongrass, ‘macerados’ at £3 a shot. Similarly authentic, is opalescent lime, bitters and egg white flip, pisco sour, a national obsession. Add to that, pisco punches, mules and Maria Sangrienta, llama-land’s fiery spin on the bloody Mary. Cusqueña is present and correct but no Peruvian wines make the cut, elbowed out by Chilean sauvignon blanc pinot noir by the glass,  a belting Brazilian cabernet franc at £36 and Argentine wine. But Thatcher's children are boycotting that these days   
17 Frith Street W1D 4RF 7292 2040  http://cevicheuk.com